C  O  U  R  T  R  I  D  G  E    G  U  N  D  O  G  S -
Training group information
2018


Group sessions continue once a fortnight
on SUNDAYS.
We train throughout the year


Group times as follows

10.00 'Young Novices' .. so-called as many of them started together as 'baby' puppies and have stayed as a group ever since with the inclusion of some new blood!

12.00 Young puppies (from about 10 weeks) and older dogs that, for various reasons, have had no previous training.

12.45 (approx) Older puppies/improvers

2.00 (approx) Novice/Open dogs



If you are interested in attending any of these groups please contact Anthea Lawrence via the Contact page on this site.

All dogs/puppies older than 'baby' puppies will need to come for an individual assessment to see if they are ready to join a group and if they are, which group wil suit them.


If you would prefer to have 1-2-1 lessons, please contact Anthea in the same way.

Retrievers, spaniels and HPR's are all welcome in these groups - at the time of writing the following breeds are 'on the books' :

cocker spaniel, English springer spaniel, Clumber spaniel, Labrador retriever, curly coated retriever, golden retriever, barbet, Hungarian vizsla, German shorthaired pointer and Korthals griffon.

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On August 16th 2016 our 'end of term' event was a


2-DOG TRAINING DAY

 12 handlers with 24 dogs participated with a total of 8 breeds from three of the gundog sub-groups represented in the numerous partnerships.

We were, yet again, fortunate to have a lovely fine day for the event and fortunate too to have Sarah and Natasha Epsom with us who, between them, took around 300 photographs of the event a small number of which are shown below with others available to view on our Facebook group page.





August 2014

On August 23rd we held aWGC day on dummies here at Trehelig alongside the river Severn and were fortunate to have a beautiful morning, on the whole, other than at lunch time when a shower took us all inside for about 10 minutes or so. 

I'm pleased to report that we had 11 handlers and 12 dogs participating and 10 handlers with 11 dogs achieved passes with only one handler and dog deemed 'not ready' although she was only a small bit not ready and I'm sure she will achieve her WGC in the very near future!

My thanks to my co-assessor Brian Yates and also to dummy throwers, guns and helpers: Steve, Lainey, Hannah and Ally.

Congratulations to those who gained their Working Gundog Certificate:

Dave Thwaites (Tat) with Briaryfield Hunt (Hungarian Vizsla), Nigel Haines with Treunair Croy (Golden Retiever),
Michelle Mills with Old School Angus from Bryntail (Labrador Retriever),
Avril Wood with Brodick of Haulfryn (Labrador Retriever),
Alexis Prosser with Yarlington Gilbert and Courtridge Crofter (Golden Retrievers),
Tina Smith with Isfryn Lickety Split (Welsh Springer Spaniel), Cindy Keeley with Darleigh Prancer (Labrador Retriever),
Anna Jones with Bengalbrook Starbuck of Chemsell (Labrador Retriever),
Wendy Manning with Dallagill Bluebell with Overmarsh (Labrador Retriever) 
Annette Shearman with Hickorywood Heart of Gold (Golden Retriever)



DELIVERY

 .... PROBLEMS


I prefer to teach young dogs all aspects of 'to hand' and 'tenderly' very early in their training long before a dog leaves my side to do a 'retrieve'. For many people retrieving is all about throwing something, sending the dog for the item thrown and then hoping the dog will find it, pick it up and return to the handler. Doing it that way is guaranteed to create problems!


For numerous handlers who have done it in this way problems will already be evident. Sometimes there is only one problem and sometimes there are many problems and these are not the fault of the dog but because a handler has not taken the time to teach the dog exactly what is required and has largely left it to the dog to decide how it will complete numerous aspects of the retrieve. The dog's way will usually be far from the ideal! The longer the dog has done it his or her way then the more the dog will  believe that his way is the way the handler wants it to be even if the handler gets increasingly cross and frustrated at the apparently 'stupid' dog!


If your dog retrieves and ever fails either to deliver to hand or tenderly in the way described above then first of all you need to acknowledge that there is a problem, however small that may be, and then you need to begin re-training the dog so that the dog learns how you want these aspects to be in the future.

Doing nothing is not an option because the problems will not get better on their own, they will either stay the same or get worse. Making excuses is not a viable option either! I've probably heard all the reasons handlers tell me about why their dog drops a dummy, hasn't learnt to stop in front of the handler, wont hold onto a dummy for very long, only drops dummies when coming out of water, never does it with birds etc. etc. I therefore repeat 'If your dog retrieves and ever fails either to deliver to hand or tenderly in the way described above' then there is a problem and the day you acknowledge that is the day when you can start to teach your dog what you would actually like him to do instead of the way he does it now!
                  
Sorting out the problems



We'll assume that you have found one or more problems in your self-assessment of your dog and now want to do something to begin the process of curing the problems once and for all so that your dog begins to understand what you want from him now instead of him assuming that what he does now is what you want.
The first thing to consider is that the solution to any problems regarding delivery never lies at the point where the problem is seen. The solution to the problem always lies much further back in the dog's training history and, for this reason, you need to go right back to the point where a dog learns about having something in its mouth. 

For those who try and tackle the problem at the point where the problem is seen, what they will do is throw endless dummies for the dog on land and in water, send the dog and then encounter the delivery problem every time the dog returns with the dummy. What that tactic does is give the dog dozens of opportunities to go racing around or lots of swims to retrieve dummies, which is not the training issue that needs addressing but it, more importantly, continues the delivery problems.

Practice makes permanent! The more you practice the bits which aren't quite right, the more the problems are cemented into place in the dog's mind and the longer it will take to solve the problems and change the behaviour of the dog to something more in keeping with your requirements.

One of the reasons so many people have dogs with delivery problems is that they begin a gundog's career by throwing a ball, dummy or a toy for a young puppy and take great delight in seeing a young dog chasing after something. On occasions, some pups will pick up the item and on fewer occasions some pups will return somewhere near the handler. The new owner of the pup is invariably delighted at this 'natural ability' and can't wait to repeat the whole experience as soon as they can - usually the next day or within a few hours! Thus practicing, already, things which are less than perfect and leading the puppy to believe that, as his owner is so delighted, he's doing what his owner wants him to do.

Therein lies the root of all delivery problems and often there are a few other problems being built in for good measure such as unsteadiness! One is also encouraging a puppy to do things which you will later want to stop him doing - that's called 'dog breaking'.

Of course a puppy will chase after  a ball or a toy. This is called the 'chase instinct' and nearly all mammals have this instinct, which developed thousands of years ago, as without it they would have starved to death as they would not have been able to find other creatures to eat. Because it's an instinct it will not disappear if you don't get it switched on too early and I much prefer to teach numerous other things to a puppy before I allow it to chase or hunt. In that way I can control the chase instinct and use it for my benefit to find, eventually, shot and wounded game and, in training, allow the dog to develop its own style (still under my control) which I can increasingly shape once the basics are in place.

Re-training.

Before I suggest how you can begin I'll show you a few photos of two training session I did 2 weeks  and a few days ago. I am fortunate in that ever since I began training a puppy to understand what having something in their mouth means, I haven't had any delivery problems no matter from where the dog has retrieved  i.e. land or water. That does not mean I teach it once and then not bother to do it any more. It means I have specific sessions where holding something is a vital part of the training. This is also a vital part of working two or more dogs together when picking up as my dogs sometimes have to queue up with birds they've retrieved until I'm able to take birds from individual dogs.

On these particular sessions I took Connie and Nénu out together for a short training session. Nénu was staying for the weekend and as she sometimes comes picking up with me, she needs to work alongside my dogs.

None of these photos were posed and all were taken in the course of the short training sessions.






































No deliveries, by either of the dogs, were ever taken by me as soon as a dog returned to me and I did not lunge forward to grab a dummy as soon as a dog arrived in the present position (Yes, even from the water!) Instead, I praised the dog and left her sitting there whilst I did something with the other dog. 

Sometimes I left one dog sitting holding the dummy and sent the other dog to retrieve, sometimes I kept both dogs waiting with dummies in their mouths whilst I walked away, on occasions going back and praising each dog, on other occasions re-calling one dog and expecting the other dog to remain in a sit holding the dummy. 

Sometimes I returned to a dog and touched the dummy in her mouth but did not take it. In other words everything was very controlled, never rushed and neither dog knew what would happen next. What each dog had to do was very clearly stated by me and was a simple command either in terms of a directional command to go and retrieve, a recall command, a 'sit' command or a 'hold' command. No other words were used other than each dog's name (because I was working two dogs) and reminder commands of 'sit' and 'hold' together with lots of praise for doing or continuing to do what I had asked. 

Above all, each dog had to listen to what I was saying, had to obey me and was instantly praised for everything she did in accordance with my wishes. Neither dog was anxious, neither dog was in any doubt what she must do. Yes, both made small mistakes on occasions but these were corrected immediately and the specific dog given some help, followed by a chance to try again.  

I enjoyed the training session but, that apart, it was meaningful in terms of addressing a specific area of training and not a session where one just throws dummies and lets the dogs retrieve them. That would not training!

What to do and how to do it.

If you have a dog who fails to deliver to hand no more than once in every million then some of the above would be useful every now and again just to make sure your dog continues to understand your rules.

For everyone else you should aim to give the solution to the problem your full attention for a week or two and that should mean no retrieving!

Aim to teach your dog a 'hold' command. Even if you think your dog knows the command, the fact that you have a delivery problem means, in reality, that the dog does not know what the command means so this needs to be taught first. 

Quite simply the command to the dog means 'hold something in your mouth and keep it in your mouth until I (the handler) take hold of the item and give you the release command of  give/dead.

How to teach. (See: Teaching the 'hold' commandin 'Training the Working Retriever' for more details)

You should arm yourself with some kind of toy which your dog has never seen before (charity shops!). It should be fairly small in diameter but be long enough to poke out of the dog's mouth at each end so you can easily take hold of it with 2 hands. Don't use a dummy because your dog has already got problems with delivering a dummy and the idea is to provide some new thoughts on the whole aspect of holding something and replace the old with the new. Once the dog is behaving in the way you want you can start to wean the dog off the toys and gradually replace dummies.

This toy is yours but you will allow the dog to play the 'hold' game with you although it is by your rules. I find it best to do this indoors and you can either sit on the floor or on a chair and have the dog sit in front of you. Gently open the dog's mouth and put the toy in the dog's mouth saying 'hold' as you do so. Almost immediately, take the toy in both hands and give the release command and instantly praise the dog as though he'd just won the retriever championship! 

The first time you do this, do it once only and then put the toy away in your drawer not the dog's kennel or toy box! You should aim to do this on as many occasions as you can throughout the day but only once each time for the first few attempts, gradually increasing to 3 or 4 times each session. Do not give the 'hold' command and wait for the dog to take the item (or in many cases wait for the dog not to take the item!) You must open the mouth each time and say the 'hold' word only when it's in the dog's mouth.

Be very, very careful to open the mouth gently and also ensure that the dog's lips are not caught between his teeth and the toy. These two factors are extremely important because any pain or discomfort will form bad associations with the 'hold' command instead of good ones. It is also very important to use a friendly tone of voice for the 'hold' command too. The 'hold' command, like every other command cannot be used as a punishment it's a doing word for the dog, something you want the dog to do, and therefore has to be said in a normal tone of voice.

I can't say  how many days you need to do this exercise in the same way with your dog because that will depend on the dog, how many months/years the dog has had delivery problems, how good and patient a teacher you are. If in doubt go on a bit longer!

When you get to the stage that the dog will willingly hold the toy then you need to increase the length of time the dog will hold it but you must praise the dog continuously and also repeat the hold command in between praising. It also helps if you scratch the dog's chest between the front legs as in many dogs this is a calming area and it also makes the dog lift its head up and many close their eyes with the ecstasy of it all! Stay very close to the dog and look for an sign that the dog is about to, or could, drop the dummy and pre-empt that by reminding 'hold' and perhaps gently putting your hand under the chin.

If the toy does drop to the floor you can't do anything about it other than learn and watch more carefully. You cannot punish a dog for the fact that a dummy has landed on the floor or ground. You may, on occasions if you're quick enough, punish the thinking about dropping it, by growling, and then reminding 'hold'. 

I've seen so many handlers punishing dogs concerning the fact that the dummy has landed on the ground and they do this by shouting at the dog, picking the dummy up themselves and ramming it into the dog's mouth and shouting 'HOLD'. I've never seen these methods work in terms of the dog learning to hold a dummy and the reasons it doesn't work are these: at least 4 punishments are being used i.e. shouting, ramming the dummy in the mouth, hurting the dog's lips and teeth and shouting a command word. All these actions by the handler punish the dog, not for dropping it, but punish the dog for holding it as the punishments continue whilst the dog again has the dummy in its' mouth. That is why these methods do not work and will not solve the problem.

I believe that a dog has no idea about cause and effect in relation to holding something and the fact that that item arrives on the ground but that apart, if you want a dog to do something they, like us, are more likely to do it if taught, allowed to learn, told to do it in a courteous manner and will repeat the task if our effort is appreciated and rewarded. Shouting at and hurting a dog will do nothing to encourage learning the behaviour or repeating it. 

Punishment is designed to deter. So why, if one wants a dog to hold a dummy  would one inflict a punishment and associate pain with the very thing we want the dog to do? Beats me, and no-one can ever explain to me why they do this!

When the dog will willingly hold a toy on command and continue to hold it for longer, but variable, periods of time then you should add a few different circumstances to the dogs' understanding. Firstly by doing a sit/hold and walking round the dog before standing in front of the dog and taking the toy, then by walking further away from the dog, returning to take the toy and then by returning but not taking the toy but walking away again. Try to be unpredictable in terms of when you will take the toy but totally consistent in terms of what the dog must do. Don't use any words other than 'sit' 'hold', 'dead' and praise words.

The above should be practiced over several days then it will be time to generalise the behaviour - 'take it on the road'! What this means, is that the practiced and perfected behaviour should then be taken to a different place from the place one taught and perfected the desired behaviour. That does not mean make the new circumstances, to which you'll take the behaviour, so different and/or exciting that the new behaviour will be demolished! You need to protect the new behaviour like carrying a dozen eggs or a bottle of wine home in the car!

So practice the sit and hold in the garden, in different places in the house, anywhere and everywhere you can think of without throwing anything and without too many distractions. Distractions should be built into the circumstances gradually and progressively until you get to the stage whereby wherever you and the dog are, you can give the dog a toy to hold and no matter what, the dog will continue to hold the item until you too hold it and  give the 'dead' release command.

At this stage you can legitimately give yourself a pat on the back and say 'well done'! Don't go OTT praising yourself however as the job isn't finished yet!




Puppy/Beginner Group Saturday April 19th























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